Cordoba 7-9 May 2023
dear travel diary
Cordoba has the unique distinction of being the only city in the world to host four world heritage sites, The Mezquita, The historic city centre, the patios and the palace town of Medina Azahara.
We decided to come here as our trip dates coincided with the Patios de Cordoba festival.
Because of the heat in Cordoba, most homes are arranged around a cool inner courtyard. Over time it became a tradition to decorate these spaces with a profusion of plants and flowers. There would usually be a well or a fountain in the centre. About 100 years ago the city council decided to organise a competition to showcase the beauty of these courtyards and today there is an annual festival at the beginning of may when home owners open their private courtyards to visitors.
By Toni Castillo Quero - Flickr: [1]
This aerial photograph demonstrates the appalling vandalism of the Catholic church in the 16th century. The Cordoba mosque was constructed in 785 and enlarged over subsequent centuries. When Cordoba was captured by the Christian forces of Castille in 1236 it was converted into a cathedral but no major modifications were made to the magnificent building. However in 1523, Bishop Alonso de Manrique decided it would be a great idea to rip out the heart of the mosque and plonk a gaudily baroque cathedral right in the middle with absolutely no regard to to integrity of this masterpiece of architecture.
Thus was one of the most beautiful buildings ever constructed destroyed. Not surprisingly the Cordoba council opposed his plan but the good bishop had a direct line to Charles V King of Castille and Aragon. The King overruled the council and the the hybrid monstrosity that we see today was born. When the cathedral was completed the King was less than pleased with the result and is claimed to have said "You have built what you or anyone else might have built anywhere, to do so you have destroyed something that was unique in the world." Quite.
The cupola - a wedding cake distorted by the time space continuum
Winged angel and its pet who has just eaten something messy.
The site is a UNESCO world heritage site and without a trace of irony the citation reads, "The Great Mosque, with its juxtaposition of cultures and architectural styles, has retained its material integrity."
Some would disagree. But wait there's more.
The citation continues, "The greatest reconstruction was carried out in the Renaissance period, between 1523 and 1599, which resulted in its present structure of space."
'Reconstruction' is not the word I would have used. Perhaps UNESCO might consider a reconstruction of Machu Pichu to include a cathedral?
My idea for the 'reconstruction' of Machu Pichu to please UNESCO.
The cathedral sits like a gigantic tumour in its surroundings and sadly the vandalism did not end there. In 1589 the minaret which was being used as a bell tower was damaged by a storm. The church authorities decided to strengthen and encase the original minaret in a gothic bell tower. This required the demolition of part of the upper portion of the minaret but, hey, that's progress for you. Sadly, the builders didn't do a very good job and only a few decades after its completion the monstrous bell tower required significant repairs.
I felt sad as I walked around this monument to cultural vandalism. I'm not a huge fan of the baroque and the overly ornate cathedral site like a cheap gaudily dresses tinsel christmas tree in a forest or beautiful, ancient and silent oak trees
