Orvieto                                                     3-4 May 2023

the magnificent fascade of Orvieto cathedral

I've written earlier in the trip about the inordinate amount of time it took to build St Peters in Rome. However there can be few cathedrals in the world with a longer construction time than that of Orvieto. It took a staggering 300 years to put the final touches to this building. It was started in 1290 and finished in 1591. To be fair to the builders, they pulled off a corker of a job on the front end which those who know about these things say is the finest example of gothic decoration you could wish for.  If you're a fan of church organs you will be thrilled to know that the cathedral organ is the largest in Italy with 5,580 pipes.

dear travel diary...

We took the train from Bari to Rome where we had to change for Orvieto. As we settled into our seats, an American and Italian couple both made for the same seats opposite us. The American lady immediately challenged the Italians saying that the seats were theirs and pointed to her ticket with the seat number printed on it. The Italian was courteous and patient as the woman demanded to see his ticket repeating again and again in quite an aggressive manner that the seats were theirs. I was fascinated by the contrast of hostility and old world manners as they attempted to sort out the double booking.

The Italian politely asked to see the woman's ticket. She waved it triumphantly under his nose stabbing at the seat number and then pointing to the identical number above the seat. Yes indeed they were the same. The Italian gentleman, with a masterful pause before delivering the knock out blow, then pointed out that while the seat numbers were correct, she was in the wrong carriage.

The woman let out a long, slow gasp of air as she deflated rapidly in front of the audience who were now following the drama with rapt attention.  She looked at her husband who had been a mute observer the entire time, and brayed out in a loud voice,

'Honey, we don't know a thing.'

You could just feel that everyone in the carriage wanted to applaud this unwittingly accurate self evaluation. They then shuffled off with her two gigantic suitcases to find her seats elsewhere.

 

A slice of everyday life in Roma Termini station cafe

 

I'm not sure why I liked this station cafe so much. Roma Termini was crowded to the point where you could hardly move. There are a massive 31 platforms and we arrived at rush hour. To add to the confusion there was a line fault south of Rome so a large number of trains were delayed or cancelled leading to even more people milling about looking desperately to the  electronic information boards.  We took refuge in this cafe where the staff had obviously chosen their mix tape to cater for a wide range of tastes. When we started our cappucinos it was thumping out some heavy rap which was followed by the Sinatra father/daughter duet 'Something Stupid'. The entire staff sang along with gusto as they served their coffees and this track was then followed by Amy Winehouse. 

You can read about Orvieto here. 


our accommodation

The owner of this house is quite obviously a serious bibliophile!