Thats about 40 euro's worth of the finest Jambon Iberica

dear traverl diary...

I was very tired last night when I wrote the blog and forgot to mention that not only did our friends at the bar last night treat us to delicious Iberian ham but they also covered our drinks bill for four glasses of wine. We were touched by their kindness and generosity. As I've written before, this is the alternate reality to the hatred, anger and bitterness that assaults us every time we read 'the news'. As we sat talking with them and using Google translate to get over the difficult bits, a baby buggy was parked next to our table with an adorable seven months old baby fast asleep inside. I couldn't think of a better way to introduce that little child into the social world of adults than for her to wake up and see everyone around her laughing and smiling, drinking delicious wine and eating delectable food. Standing near us was a family with three generations with the grandmother laughing with her youngest granddaughter who looked about eight. I loved the lack of division between the adult and children's world. Had the baby been a bit older I might have given her some advice on how not only is drinking wine with friends one of the great experiences of life, but that it can also help with long-distance air travel. I regretted not having a copy of the Rubyat of Omar Khyam to plonk in her buggy for her to read later.

 

The life expectancy of pigs in this part of the world is, I suspect, rather short with an alarming incidence of infant mortality. The locals consume them voraciously in a variety of forms. The gourmet option seems to be the Iberian ham we had last night. You can see it hanging as whole legs which have been preserved, most for several years. Like a good wine they have a label to indicate their vintage. It is served sliced by a waiter wielding fearsome looking razor thin knife. The other favourite dish is suckling pig for which Segovia is apparently famous. To advertise their little porkers, some restaurants have a model in their window of the delicacy that awaits you should you choose their establishment. The one near our hotel proudly displayed a baby piglet reposing in a dish with its little trotters in the air and it's snout and cute hairy ears hanging over the edge of the bassinet in which you eat it. This presentation takes 'eating something with a face' to a whole new level. I felt sorry for any passing vegans who might have been exposed to this but, hey, everyone has the right to their favourite food. I was relieved to see in the restaurant we ate at that the piglet at the next table had been decapitated and dismembered before serving. I appreciated the chef's discretion. I opted to have the charcoal grilled shoulder of pork which mercifully bore no resemblance at all to any animal, and which I could therefore eat with relish.

 

We are now on a train to Salamanca. The landscape around is flat and dotted with villages and beautiful small churches. The clouds are different in Spain and the light has a delicate, more subtle quality. This produces a more nuanced look in some of the photos I have taken. In New Zealand the light is so often bright and full. It can be difficult to photograph landscape and give it a texture because it is floodlit and therefore even. That's why I have to take photographs close to dawn as the light paints the landscape with a delicacy that disappears as the sun rises high in the sky. Here the clouds interest me and produce softer light. I have christened this blog 'Looking For Light' mainly because that is what I spend all my time doing when I am taking photographs. I realised after a few years of taking landscape photographs that I was not really capturing the land so much as the light. My most satisfying images had a quality of light that was both evanescent and rare. Even the flattest of landscapes can look magnificent when the light is just right.

 

The second reason I chose the blog title was because when we are north of the Arctic Circle, there will be no sun to illuminate the land. That's a pretty unique challenge for a landscape photographer. I've spent years learning the craft of photography so this is, in some ways, like an exam! Let's hope I pass.

 

 

So, we have come to the last day of our trip to Spain and Italy. We are feeling sad because it has been a wonderful varied trip. Gill and I have been together 24 hours a day for the past month and realised how precious it is to be in a buble together away from all the normal stuff like supermarket shopping and doing the weeding. 

 

It has been an adventure and we have loved every minute of our travels. We have been lucky that nothing has gone disasterously wrong and, we have been healthy so far. We became seriously ill on a previous trip and this was always at the back of our minds. We have seen so many things that delighted us and we know how lucky we are to be able to travel in this way, stopping where we want to and where something catches our interest. 

 


Painting of the Alcázar of Segovia, circa 1838 by David Roberts

Hall of the Kings   C. Rozay

If the Alcazar in Segovia looks like a Disney castle it's because it is - but not in the way you think. It predates Disney significantly as it was constructed in the 11th century by the Almoravid dynasty. It apparently caught the fancy of someone at Disney and was the model for the castle in Snow White and the Seven Dwarves. 

For historians, the Alcazar is notable as one of the few surviving examples of Almoravid art and architecture in Spain. The dynasty was short lived and their successors made it their business to destroy as much as they could of what there was. Luckily for Disney, the Alcazar survived. 

One intriguing piece of art that did survive has been the subject of some academic speculation. A fragment of the 12th century shroud of San Pedro de Osma bears the inscription 'Made in Baghdad'. Nothing to see here you might think. But apparently this labelling was fraudulent. There is strong evidence, cited by people who know about these things, that the shroud was, in fact, manufactured locally in Iberia. So why say it was made in Baghdad? Quite simple really. Whoever manufactured the cloth knew that they could get a higher price by falsifying the country of origin. 

What intrigues me is that the fragment is currenty in the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. Leaving aside the question of how it got from Spain to Boston does this mean that the unfortunate San Pedro had his shroud removed at some point? Is he shroudless?  The museum purchased the fragment from a dealer called Herman Elsberg for $14,500 in 1933.  Did no one think to  ask him where he got it from? Maybe that's not how it works in the art world. 

The shroud of San Pedro de Osama


The aqueduct of Segovia

By Z3144228 - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=64988066

 

As aqueducts go this is, without doubt, as good as it gets. It was built around the first century AD to bring water from a spring in the mountain to the city, 17 kilometres away. It has 167 arches and is probably the best preserved Roman acqueduct still standing. It's right in the middle of Segovia so you don't have far to go from your hotel to see it - a gift for lazy tourists such as ourselves.

By McPolu  CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1088132


Segovia cathedral

Towering above Segovia is the magnificent cathedral. By the time it was started in 1525, the influence of gothic style was waning and this is the last Gothic cathedral to be built in Spain. The original spire was destroyed by fire and rebuilt in stone in1614. This is a shame as the original spire was built from American mahogony and was once the tallest tower in Spain. The current one, at 90 metres, looks a bit lumpy and out of proportion to me but then I'm not a cathedral architect. 

One of the articles I read on the cathedral seemed quite excited about the Chapter House which houses a series of Flemish tapestries depicting scenes from the life of Queen Zenobia of Palmyra.

I have to admit my shameful ignorance of this extraordinary woman and I was even more ashamed when I read the Wikipaedia entry on her eventful life. So eventful was her life that it took me a good 30 minutes to read the entry. One sentence, in particular struck me, "As a heroic queen with a tragic end she ranks with Cleopatra and Boudica." Apparently Catherine The Great liked to compare herself to Queen Zenobia as a woman who created military might and an intellectual court. If you have some idle moments, Queen Zenobia she is well worth the attention.

 

Queen Zenobia's last look upon Palmyra by Gustave Schmalz 1888


our accommodation